2 (1 1/2-pound) fresh Dungeness crabs or 1 1/3 cups lump crabmeat

1/2 cup unsalted butter plus 2 tablespoons cubed unsalted butter, divided

1/2 cup chopped garlic (about 2 heads)

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 (12-ounce) package dried bucatini pasta

2 teaspoons fish sauce

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

3/4 teaspoon black pepper

Directions

If using lump crabmeat, skip to step 2. For fresh crabs, place steamer basket in a large pot; fill pot with water until water line is just below bottom of steamer basket, about 1 to 2 inches deep. Bring to a boil over high. Add crabs; cover and steam until shells turn bright orange, 18 to 20 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice and water. Let crabs cool in ice bath 10 minutes. Remove crabmeat. Place 1 1/3 cups crabmeat in a bowl; set aside. (Reserve any remaining crabmeat for another use.)

Melt 1/2 cup butter in a medium saucepan over low. Add crabmeat to butter in pan; bring to a simmer over low, stirring often. Add garlic; increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, about 2 minutes. Stir in nutmeg; transfer crab mixture to a small bowl.

Cook bucatini according to package directions for al dente. Meanwhile, heat fish sauce, vinegar, and pepper in a large skillet over medium. Add 1/2 cup reserved crab mixture, and cook, stirring, until sauce comes to a simmer. Turn off heat.

Drain pasta; reserve 3 tablespoons pasta cooking liquid. Add bucatini and reserved cooking liquid to skillet; cook over medium-high, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Turn off heat. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons cubed butter until melted. Fold in remaining crab mixture.

By Diep Tran
Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, December 2023 / January 2024