2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium-size (9-ounce) yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 (4-ounce) package chopped pancetta

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 (28-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pound uncooked rigatoni pasta

1 ½ ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely shredded (about 2/3 cup), plus more for serving

¾ ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely shredded (about 1/4 cup), plus more for serving

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Directions

Heat oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high. Add onion, and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in pancetta; cook, stirring often, until pancetta begins to render, about 5 minutes. Stir in crushed red pepper. Using your hands or a wooden spoon, crush tomatoes; add tomatoes and their juices to skillet. Bring to a boil over medium-high; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring often, until flavors meld and mixture thickens, about 20 minutes. Stir in salt. Remove from heat.

While sauce cooks, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high. Add rigatoni, and cook according to package instructions for al dente, about 13 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid.

Add rigatoni, reserved 1/2 cup cooking liquid, Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino Romano, and butter to sauce in skillet. Cook over medium, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens and coats pasta, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and garnish with parsley. Serve with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano and pecorino Romano cheeses.

By Anna Theoktisto
Originally appeared: September 2022